The secret Temple of Gold
Early
in 2014 we learnt of a “secret” ruin that was supposedly discovered a few years
ago somewhere in the mountains above Cusco, Peru, along the Sacred Valley. As the
source refused to provide coordinates for the site, the only information
available were a few rather intriguing pictures of what looked like a sealed
rock-cut doorway and a name, Ñaupa Iglesia.
We
eventually managed to pinpoint the site’s exact location with the help of
Google maps and indications from a local guide. For anyone interested, the
actual coordinates for the site are: 13.292214S; 72.232222W.
Much
less know and significantly less travelled than its more famous counterpart at Hayu
Marca (The “Gateway of Aramu Muru” near Ilave, on
Lake Titicaca), one can reach this site only with the help of an expert local
guide or a good GPS.
A
short detour from the Sacred Valley, on a branch of the road connecting
Urubamba to Ollantaytambo, takes into a deep and somehow hidden valley
resembling a canyon with towering cliffs. One needs to leave the car at a small
river crossing, and then walk a few minutes along the railway tracks until you reach a tiny pathway leading up to some abandoned agricultural terraces likely
dating to Inca or pre-Inca times. The climb from this point takes a good 15
minutes, and can be very steep at points.
The steep trail leading up to Ñaupa Iglesia from the valley underneath, amidst towering cliffs. [Photo by Author] |
What
awaits about halfway to the top, carved into the cliff face, however, is very
much worth the effort. There lies a monument unique in its kind in all of Peru,
a rock-cut temple or shrine containing a beautifully carved monolithic altar
overlooking the valley and a rock-cut doorway, also carved from the living
rock.
There
are also walls with niches in a style closely reminiscent of Tiwanaku
architecture, but of much cruder construction, on both sides of the shrine.
This
strange ruin is known to the locals by the name of Choquekilla
or “The temple of Gold”, or “Ñaupa Iglesia”,
meaning the “Church of the Ancients”. The Ñaupas are
inhabitants of the spirit world, or of worlds before our own, and can travel
across the spaces by manifesting themselves around sunset or dawn at certain
sacred locations. According to Andean lore, a meeting with the Ñaupas can be extremely dangerous, and their secret
dwellings as well as the portals through which they cross into this world are
better left undisturbed.
The
rock-cut doorway truly looks like a gateway into another world, and one would
truly need magical powers to cross the solid rock wall sealing it. The most
interesting feature, however, is the very peculiar “altar” located at the
entrance of the cave. It is very finely carved in a way that reminds of the
stepped Chacana, symbolizing the three worlds of
Andean cosmogony. Unfortunately this beautiful altar was apparently blown up,
allegedly by treasure hunters looking for buried gold, so that now the carvings
appear incomplete. Or was it? Looking up closely, one notices several perfectly
drilled holes piercing the altar stone. These holes were supposedly used for
sticking dynamite or other explosives to blow up the hard stone in search of
gold. One wonders whether another explanation exists for the presence of these
perfectly drilled holes. Were they part of the original construction? This is
not unlikely, given the fact that similar perfectly drilled holes are also
found in hard stone at other sites in Peru and Bolivia, most notably at Tiwanaku,
Cusco and Ollantaytambo.
There
are also more interesting holes and marks on the natural bedrock leading to the
altar, suggesting that an object or artifact of some sort was placed right in
front of it and likely fastened to the stone floor. One would almost be
forgiven to think that the altar was in fact a sort of device meant to control
the opening and closing of the doorway right behind it, perhaps in some altered
state of consciousness.
Aside
from the gate, the cave appears to have partially collapsed, and some other
rock-cut surfaces suggest it might have once extended further into the
mountain.
One
is left to wonder what the purpose of this strange and somehow sinister shrine
could have been, and we have no doubt that the same crowds that now gather
around the gateway of Aramu Muru and other similar places in Peru and South
America will soon discover also this still remote and secluded location. Perhaps
this will also serve to bring to it the attention it deserves from the
archaeological community.
This is amazing and really fires my imagination. Thanks for visiting it and taking such great photos.
ReplyDeleteI've been to the site, every imagination you may have illistrated is magnified when visiting the site. I felt the energy coming from both portals. What, whom or why is a good question that most likely cannot be answered by western definition. Cheers
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