March 20, 2013
El Mirador
After spending the previous night at
the camp close to the main ceremonial center of El Mirador, we finally headed off to explore the rest of the gigantic site. Watching sunrise on the morning of the Spring Equinox from the top of the
great pyramid of El Tigre, we were
surprised to observe the sun rising a few degrees to the left of the pyramid of
La Danta. For some reason, we expected to see a somehow exact alignment on the
day of the Spring Equinox, which however did not occur. We had no instrument to
measure the angle that the sun formed with the pyramid of La Danta as seen from El
Tigre, yet it could have been somewhere in the order of 4 or 5 degrees. Certainly
further research will be needed on the point of solar and astronomic alignments
at El Mirador.
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| The sun rises over the jungle on the morning of the Spring Equinox. The great pyramid of LaDanta, shrouded in the morning mist, lies a few degrees to the South from a perfect alignment with the rising Sun as seen from the pyramid of El Tigre |
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| A reconstruction drawing at the bottom of the pyramid of El Tigre illustrates the complex layout of structures and plazas sorrounding the great triadic pyramid in the middle. All the pictures that follow were taken from on top of the uppermost platform circled in the diagram. The Orion correlation theory is also illustrated above, both in the general layout of the structures on the ground and by the angle formed between the three triadic pyramids on top. |
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| The first rays of the Sun hit the tip of the main triadic pyramid on the uppermost truncated platform of El Tigre. Recent excavations have revealed a well preserved stone stairway beneath the centuries old structure, now covered with plastic sheets as a protection from the weather. |
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| Two smaller pyramids rise on both sides of the main pyramid on the uppermost platform, forming the usual triadic pattern believe to represent the sacred triangle of the constellation of Orion - the place of Origins. Recent excavations have exposed much of the original stonework and part of the stuccoed decoration of this smaller pyramid. |
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| The three triadic pyramids rest on a gigantic truncated platform forming the complex of El Tigre. This platform, more than 50 meters high, is the third largest in El Mirador after that of La Danta and the Central Acropolis, and the second highest. It could easily contain the whole Grand Plaza of Tikal. |
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| A map and panel welcomes visitor at the entrance to the main ceremonial center of El Mirador. |
Short after descending from the pyramid of El
Tigre, we encounter Structure 34,
also called “Templo Garra de Jaguar –
Jaguar’s Paw Temple” because of the stuccoed decorations on the outside. It
is one of the most iconic structures at El Mirador, and one of the earliest
discovered and to be cleared of vegetation. In spite of its relatively small
size, this temple must have played a very important role in royal rituals at El
Mirador. Construction of the structure was probably started in 300 BC, even
though the temple bears traces of having been built on top of an earlier
structure. This temple reveals the full complexity reached by Pre-classic
architecture, almost 1000 years earlier than it had been previously thought
possible in the lowlands of Guatemala. The upper platform consists of a large
temple that must have had a corbel ceiling, and two smaller altar-temples
forming a triadic structure (one of the
earliest known examples of this arrangement). The stuccoed decoration
consists of large glyphs in the shape of a Jaguar’s paw and giant masks,
possibly portraying rulers. Traces of red paint can still be seen on top of the
stucco. Evidence suggests that a ruler by the name of Yok'noom Yi'ch'ak K'ak or "Great
Flaming Jaguar Claw” was responsible for the construction of this temple as
a dynastic shrine. At some point, probably around 100 BC, the whole structure
was buried underneath a new masonry fill and re-oriented on a North-South axis
following the re-arrangement of the grand plaza facing the pyramid of El Tigre. Excavations carried out near
the base of the monument have revealed traces of much earlier structures.
Archaeologist Richard Hansen found the remains of a wall that must have been
buried some time after 200 BC. According to Hansen, “It's a triadic structure 17 meters high that is burying an even older
building. […]This is an exposed wall. This has not seen the sun's light since
200 years before Christ. But when they buried it [the Maya], it was already in
bad shape”. [1] At the time of
our visit, a tunnel could be seen cut into the bedrock at the base of the
monument, bearing all characteristics of ancient construction. According to our
guide, archaeologists believe this tunnel, whose excavation is still
undergoing, may lead to a royal grave deep within the structure, possibly that
of the same king “Great Flaming Jaguar
Claw” recorded in glyphs found inside the Temple. In 2008, conservation
experts at the Mirador National Park erected a large metal and polycarbonate
structure to shelter the temple and its fragile stucco decoration from the
heavy rains that frequently occur in the region.
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| Temple 34, originally facing a large plaza adjoining the pyramid of El Tigre and the Central Acropolis, dates to the pre-classic period and contains some of the earliest and best preserved stuccoed decorations in the Maya world. The giant glyph, repeated on both sides of the entrance stairway, is in fact a depiction of a Jaguar's claw, probably a dynastic symbol of the rulers of Mirador. |
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| On each side of the stairway, two stone and stucco masks, each over 3 meters high, depict perhaps a deified ruler or a God with feline traits and protruding teeth and nose. The jaguar's claw glyphs to the left and to the right of each mask are placed in such a way as to resemble giant ears. |
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| Temple 34 as seen from the uppermost platform, which also contains two smaller pyramids. A modern polycarbonate structure was built to shelter the delicate stuccoed decorations from the heavy rains. |
As we move further to the East, we approach the
great Central Acropolis. Massive
mounds covered by dirt and vegetation, some as much as 30 meters high, signal
the location of buried pyramids and platforms. The whole Central Acropolis
rests on a gigantic platform some 15 to 20 meters above the ground, measuring
over 400 meters on its longest side and enclosing an area of some 85,000 m2
comprising over 15 structures.
Structure 313 shares the plaza with two smaller
structures (Structures 314 and 315) flanking the main building in the typical
triadic pattern. This structure is notable for being one of the few to be
partially excavated within the Central Acropolis and for its complex stuccoed
decoration. This building, whose earliest layers of occupation date to the
early Pre-Classic, seems to have been used as a palace by the aristocratic elite.
Several large stone masks decorate the exterior, many of which bearing traces
of intentional destruction.
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| Structure 313 was a palace for the ruling class, facing the grand Plaza on the central acropolis. It rises in several terraces up to a series of interconnected rooms on the upper platforms. With the exception of the water system, it is the only structure that has been at least partially cleared of dirt and vegetation in the area of the Central Acropolis. |
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| A large stuccoed stone mask, some 2 meters high, decorates the exterior of Structure 313 on the Central Acropolis. The mask is again notable for the protruding nose and teeth. During the late pre-classic period, this section of the palace was apparently walled up for no apparent reason, covering much of the original stuccoed decoration that was therefore preserved under the fill. |
A short distance from Structure 313, on the Central
Acropolis, excavations revealed extensive remains of a Water System dating to the Pre-classic period, circa 300-200 BC. During
the 2008 field season, excitement mounted as a large stuccoed panel began to
emerge from the side of a stairway in a building on the Great Acropolis. The
uncovered portion of the panel measures 8 meters long by 6 meters high, and
contains depictions of aquatic monsters, fishes, together with an enigmatic figure identified as the "Old God" of Maya mythology and
two characters which look as though they were swimming. A large part of the
frieze was covered by a stairway built shortly thereafter, probably no later
than 200 BC. The two swimming characters were no other than the hero twins of
the Popol Vuh, Hunahpu and Ixbalanque. The finding served as a
further confirmation of the extremely ancient origins of the Popol Vuh and the
Maya myths of creation. In the scene, the twin heroes leave from the Underworld
after defeating the Lords of Xibalba,
while one of them is carrying the head of their father, Hun Hunahpu. The twin heroes are depicted in the moment of their victory
over the Lords of Death, after vindicating their father and about to emerge
from the Underworld to turn themselves into the Sun and the Moon. Archaeologists
have also uncovered a set of pools complete with locks and drainage channels
next to the mural. In the words of Craig Argyle, the archaeologist who first
discovered the frieze, “there are no
words to describe the beauty this building must have had with its frieze when a
part of it was submerged under water, which flowed into the pools below, and
where the flow of water allowed passers by to capture the movement of one of
the hero twins as he swam upstream”. Other figurations contain an image of
the “OId God”, portrayed with the body of a bird and a long beard, and several
other images of rain and water deities. According to our guide, an additional
layer of the mural, more than 5 meters high, still lays buried beneath the
Pre-classic floor, containing a giant Jaguar face mask of which only the upper
portion is currently visible.
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| The famous frieze of the Twin Brothers from the Popol Vuh decorated the exterior of what must have been a pool of fresh water inside the city's water system. This magnificent relief contains a very complex iconography, with representations of a giant snake and several lesser gods and water creatures. |
As we leave behind the Central Acropolis and
proceed towards the Lion Pyramid, our attention is caught by a number of fragmentary stelae lying on the ground. All of the stelae must have been
clearly smashed and broken into pieces as a result of a violent attack. It is still possible to see the scars left on the broken surface of the stelae by some kind of club or weapon. Some of the fragments
contain depictions of warriors and a princess making offerings to the effigy of
a God or King, which must have originally stood some 2-3 meters high. The few
glyphs encountered on the stelae are
largely insufficient to reconstruct the history of the rulers depicted. Archaeologist
believe that several graffiti found on the stelae,
consisting of a couple of round circles connected by lines, are in fact a stylized depiction of the
God Tlaloc, the head God of Teotihuacan, probably brought here by invading
Teotihuacan warriors - the same who were likely responsible for the stelae desecration.
On the northern side of the Acropolis, a
platform built of large flagstones placed in a square arrangement marks the
likely coronation spot of the Kings of Mirador and the Kingdom of Kan. From
there, the King would have appeared in front of the crowd gathered in the
underlying plaza. A large altar with traces of burnt offerings placed in front
of a stuccoed throne must have served as the royal seat during the ceremony. Based
on the traces of plaster found on the outside of the large flagstones composing
the platform, it is likely that each flagstone served as a stela commemorating a specific ruler.
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| Shedding light on an ancient mystery. Some of the stelae lie in rows forming a platform that was likely used for the consecration of the kings of Mirador or for public sacrifices. The delicate glyphs can only be seen under particular conditions of light and are barely legible. Still largely undeciphered, they may one day tell the history of this forgotten city and of its kings. |
From there we moved to the next complex of
buildings located next to the Lion
Pyramid. This massive structure, more than 50 meters high, is now heavily
ruined and still remains unexcavated. The large plaza in front of its Eastern
stairway is surrounded by buildings and platforms on all sides. It is believed
these structures served as Solstitial and Equinoctial markers, which would make
the whole complex a gigantic solar calendar. The very ruined state of these
structures does not allow for further speculation until a comprehensive
excavation of this compound is carried out. A modern Maya altar was built in
the middle of the plaza, where ceremonies are still carried out on specific
days of the year - according to our guide.
To the East of the Lion pyramid, several
pyramids and mounds comprise the Cascabel
Group. The pyramids in this group appear to be steeper than the pyramids in
the other groups, and of much more sleek construction. In some places the
original stonework is still visible and one can easily make out the contours of
the large temples on top from beneath the trees. Many of the walls seem to be
built of cemented limestone fragments and smaller stones. However, there are
also large limestone walls made of carefully fitted blocks of stone, some of
which more than 1 meter long. The most notable pyramid in this group is called
the “Little Danta”, because of its
similarity to the much larger pyramid of La Danta further to the West. The structure, rising some
35 meters on top of a large platform, has also a triadic temple on top and is
accessed by way of a very broad stairway which has been partly cut into the
underlying bedrock. Some trenches have been dug at the base of the monuments to
uncover the original level floor of the plaza. As of today much of this vast
compound remains unexcavated and is still largely covered by vegetation.
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| The "Little Danta" is in fact a large pyramid approached by a broad stairway resembling that of La Danta. The original masonry consists of large limestone blocks, some of which as much as 2 meters long, carefully arranged in rows and plastered over. |
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| The pyramids in the Cascabel group are unusually steep and massive. Although still largely covered by dirt and vegetation, traces of the original stonework and limestone masonry are visible near the top and in trenches dug close to the base of the monuments. |
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| Some of the other pyramids in the Cascabel Group show a different style of construction consisting of massive retention walls that were later filled with dirt and smaller pebbles. Much of these retention walls still survive intact underneath the jungle canopy. |
The Monos complex, located to the South
of the Tigre pyramid, and the Pava group,
closer to the great pyramid of La Danta, have been scarcely investigated, even
though both pyramids reach an elevation of over 50 meters and face large
plazas.
As the heat grows in the afternoon, we take
some rest at the Camp eating wild oranges and other fruit gathered along the
trail. Shortly thereafter we will be heading to the great pyramid of La Danta, some 4 Km to the East of the
Camp and of the main ceremonial center.
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| Giant entangled tree roots along the ceremonial way to the pyramid of La Danta. Some of these trees can reach as high as a 15 storey building - hiding even the tallest structures from sight. |
The Great Pyramid
The most notable feature along the 4
Km stretch of the trail that separates the main ceremonial center and the Central
Acropolis from the pyramid of La Danta, is a large defensive wall pierced by
what must have been a fortified gate. The gate is directly connected to the
Sacbé leading further East to the pyramid of La Danta and to Nakbé. The
defensive wall was apparently surrounded by a moat and possessed several raised
platforms serving as towers or observation posts placed at a regular distance
from each other. This is a rather unique feature of this site, as very few
other Maya cities possessed defensive walls, and almost none possessed towers
along the perimeter of the wall. After a further 15-20 minutes’ walk, we
finally approach the giant artificial platform supporting the pyramid of La Danta.
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| The approach to the Great Pyramid of La Danta as seen from below the first terrace. Even from a few hundred meters away, nothing can be seen except the thick jungle canopy hiding the monument from sight. |
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| A very large stairway was partly built and partly cut into the natural bedrock on the approach to the great pyramid of La Danta. |
The pyramid of La Danta can rightfully claim to
be among the largest, if not the largest building in the ancient world by
volume, standing at over 2.8 million cubic meters. The dimensions of these
monumental complex are impressive: The pyramids itself rests on top of a
gigantic platform measuring some 600 by 300 meters, forming a large plaza
surrounded by temples and ceremonial structures. Much speculation surrounds the
exact nature of this platform, whether entirely artificial or partly natural.
If proven to be artificial, it would rank amongst the largest feats of engineering
in human history. Accordingly, a similar level of debate surrounds the exact
height of the pyramid of La Danta. While prudential estimates put it at 72
meters, this measurement does in fact only refer to the uppermost platform
consisting of a giant triadic structure. If the whole four (or five) underlying
terraces and platforms are considered, the total height of the monument would
surpass 180 meters, making it not only the largest, but also the highest
structure in the entire ancient World. Not surprisingly, archaeologist Richard
Hansen, referring to the pyramid of La Danta in an interview released to CNN,
calls it “An investment of labor
unprecedented in the Ancient World”.
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| Exposed stonework on the sides of the pyramid of La Danta. The massive stone blocks employed in its construction have allowed the uppermost of the three triadic pyramids to survive almost intact over two thousand years of abandonment and weather erosion. |
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| From the uppermost terrace of La Danta, it is possible to truly appreciate the massive size of the largest triadic pyramid rising some 72 meters above the jungle canopy. The base of the pyramid lies buried over 4 meters below the present day jungle floor. Smaller chamber were added at a time when much of the monument had already collapsed and its base lie covered in a thick layer of debris. |
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| The lower terrace of the pyramid contains further evidence of the massive stonework, together with remains of the original sculptured decoration, here in the shape of a giant mask with the familiar protruding teeth and nose. |
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| A much poorer quality masonry fill was added to the original limestone core of the pyramid when new chambers were added to the lower terraces to accomodate a small residential community after the collapse of Mirador and the site abandonment. The contrast with the neatly fitted stones and layers of masonry in the background is striking and testifies to the advanced building techniques already in use during the Pre-Classic period. |
The largest of the triadic pyramids on the top
platform, still partly covered by trees, rises majestically over the jungle
canopy. Again, giant stuccoed stone masks decorate the exterior of the pyramid,
some of these clearly bearing the marks of violent destruction. The steep
stairway that once led to the top of the pyramid has largely collapsed and is
too dilapidated to climb. In its place, a wooden scaffolding was built by
archaeologists on the opposite side of the pyramid, from which it is possible
to reach up to the top of the monument. The view from the top is breathtaking,
stretching over literally hundreds of miles of pristine rainforest. From this vantage point, the contours of the
ancient Maya roads and the profile of the distant ruins of Nakbé and Tintal can
be clearly made out, fully revealing the true extent of this vast ruined
network. Unlike most Maya structures, consisting of relatively small cemented
stones, the casing stones of the pyramid of La Danta are massive, some reaching
more than 1.5 meters long and very finely fitted together. The beauty of the
ancient stonework can be fully appreciated in those parts of the monument that
are relatively free from dirt and vegetation.
Again,
the sun sets one more time over this city of the dead.
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| Long way up. The impressive view over the treetops from the Pyramid of La Danta, possibly the largest in the world. The pyramid projects a huge looming shadow over the sorrounding jungle, stretching far away as a giant green carpet. |
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| A closer view of the upper terraces of La Danta. Without the protection of the original limestone casing, much of the interior fill has collapsed uncovering the masonry core of the pyramid. |
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| The sun sets over the jungle from the pyramid of La Danta |
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